Brasserie Dandelion, a modern hidden gem in Berlin, brings a fusion of global influences to its menu, thanks to the unique partnership between owner Qingqing Hu and chef Troy Lopez. We sat down with Troy to explore his culinary journey, his love for cooking, and how he incorporates sustainability and innovation into his work.
In one of Berlin's liveliest districts, Brasserie Dandelion just opened its doors a few months ago. A modern space with high walls and a focus on the essential – a hidden oasis, if you will. Owner Qingqing Hu, who studied architecture and is specialized in gastronomy design, decided to collaborate with Troy Lopez, resulting in a unique culinary concept that unites influences from various cultures. What makes Dandelion and Troy's cuisine so special becomes understandable in our interview with him.
"Cooking is about pleasure and connecting with others on a primal level."
Who are you?
I am a 58-year-old Jamaican chef living and working in Berlin for the last 25 years. I am currently employed as a kitchen chef at Brasserie Dandelion.
When did you discover your passion for cooking, how did you know you wanted to take this path?
Even as a small child, I’ve always had an interest in cooking. Being with my grandmother in the kitchen was my preferred place. I grew up with food and cooking playing a central role in family life. All my uncles could cook and were encouraged to cook. So, for me, it was quite natural. As I said, food plays a strong role in Jamaican culture. In the summertime, us children would organize our meals, with each person contributing whatever they had. As I grew up, it was only natural for me to learn more wherever I could. It wasn’t until I left America to live in Europe that I decided to take the ultimate step to turn my hobby into my chosen career.
What does cooking mean to you?
Cooking for me is a release. A good friend once told me that the perfect job is one where you get to use a little bit of everything you know daily. Cooking is about enjoyment and pleasure. Planning and executing a dish that brings you as much pleasure as you hope it will give the receiver. As a cook, you have a unique opportunity to connect and engage with those you come in contact with on a primal level – the most sensual of conversations.
What has been the most transformative experience in your journey as a chef?
To me, this question doesn’t seem to have a real answer. I’m in a constant state of flux. I’m always learning. I’m always interested. My foundation is always being adjusted the more I’m exposed to.
Which inspirations do you use for new dishes? Does it happen naturally or do you have any specific activities that help you get creative?
Inspiration may only be one conversation away. I love talking about food and hearing others talk about food. All of us have personal preferences, but it only takes the right word to add a new perspective that inspires something new. I’m a fan of kitchen tools/gadgets, and sometimes it’s enough to be introduced to a new one. More often than not, I ask myself what my grandmother would do if confronted by something new. I also read a lot. I studied literature, and one of the most important tools I picked up is researching. The funny thing about research is all the things you find once you start digging through the pile.
How would you describe your cuisine?
The way I cook is the sum total of all my encounters to date. Old recipes or techniques mixed with the new. Piecing together things that shouldn’t work together but do. It’s all about finding intersections.
Apart from cooking and creating dishes, what does this job mean to you?
Cooking is just a part of a larger experience. When people meet to share a meal, good food can be a conduit to so much more. Food should be a primer to all that. An enhancement to the joy of being together.
How do you incorporate sustainable practices into your work and vision for the future?
My primary engagement on that level is with the new generation. They are the future, and whatever I can do to help or encourage their development is my duty. Whether it be working with young children or aspiring new chefs. It is also not a one-way street, as they are a source of new and modern ideas. I find that sharing what I know is a continuation of an art form.
How do you see the food scene evolving, and what exciting developments are you noticing?
I think as bad as COVID was for our industry, it was also a chance for people to delve first hand into the making of food. Trying new food directions and developing an openness to new experiences.
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